A Guide to Dublin, Ireland

BY CAROLYN STINE

Dublin often gets a bad rap for being a stopover for beers and pub food and not much else. In reality, it’s a bustling metropolis that offers so much more than Guinness and a visit to see the Book of Kells. I had visited Dublin in years past and done all of the “check it off your list” touristy items (read: Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral), but this time around, I wanted to see the Dublin that Dubliners experience.

As a resident New Yorker, I tried to walk as much as humanly possible, but note that Ubers are widely available and cabs can easily be called by your hotel of choice. I've stayed on both sides of the River Liffey, but have found that staying a bit removed from the main touristy areas is highly desirable. It's nice feeling like you can leave the masses and come back to a quieter refuge at the end of a long day of exploring.

If you're willing to venture off the beaten path and go farther north and south, you will be rewarded with a plethora of less-populated things to do. Hop in an uber and head up to the National Botanic Gardens, with a stop-off for brunch at Two Boys Brew (it was sadly closed while I was there due to an electrical outage). Or venture south and walk the canals while digesting a hearty avocado toast brunch at Brother Hubbard South. Dublin is truly your oyster.

Read on for my Dublin travel guide!

Where To Stay:

Dylan Hotel - This is my absolute favorite place I’ve stayed in Dublin. It feels tucked away in more of a neighborhood, has such a gorgeous ambiance, and the staff was beyond friendly and helpful.

Spencer Hotel - This newer hotel has a more modern feel and is heavy on the amenities, but I found the Dylan Hotel to be significantly more charming. That said, we had a great stay at the Spencer, and were able to walk everywhere we wanted to go from its location on the north side of the river.

Westin Dublin - Ah, the beauty of hotel points.

Where To Eat:

Eathos - Think more Aussie cafe and less Irish pub. This bright and airy cafe serves up some healthy and colorful brunch options if you’re sick of a classic Irish brekkie. I loved the Acai bowl with passion fruit, and the baked goods are great to-go options.

Brother Hubbard South - My favorite places for eggs in Dublin, I got the avo toast topped with dukkah and harissa yogurt and it was heavenly. Note that there are 2 locations.

Winding Stair - Centrally located and great for lunch, post up here for an absolutely delicious seafood chowder and glass of rose to boot.

Peruke & Periwig - In a little townhouse, this multi-story bar and restaurant is dark, moody, and fantastic. Camp out downstairs for speakeasy-vibe cocktails before dinner, then head up the old staircase to a little library nook for a simple and elegant meal.

Forest Ave - Our best meal in Dublin, this tasting menu is both delicious and unassuming. The ambiance is low-key, and each course had us licking our plates.

House - When you’ve had enough Guinness to last a lifetime, nothing beats a good cocktail. House not only had fantastic cocktails, but an awesome vibe and really fun people for an after-dinner drink.

Industry & Co - Part coffee shop, part cafe, part home shop where I wanted to buy everything. Grab a coffee and a snack and browse the store.

Network Coffee - This little coffee shop is the perfect caffeine stop-off en route to St Stephen’s Green. Don’t miss it.

What To Do:

St. Stephen’s Green - The quintessential Dublin experience, save some time to stroll through this beautiful and central park, which is adorned with flowers, fountains, and some beautiful swan ponds. It’s also bordered by the old and classic Shelbourne Hotel, which is fun to pop into.

National Botanical Gardens - Dublin’s Botanical Gardens are absolutely stunning, and this is coming from someone who’s seen a lot of gardens. Spend a morning wandering around, or sitting on a bench and reading a good book.

Fallon & Byrne Food Hall - Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the Temple Bar area by popping into this gourmet market and food hall for a browse. Bonus points if you head upstairs and dine at the lovely restaurant there.

Glasnevin Cemetery - Located in the north of the city, this old cemetery is both haunting and beautiful. Wander through the old gravestones and soak up the history there, then head next door to the Botanical Gardens.

Croke Park - If you get the chance to see a concert while in Dublin, head to Croke Park for the time of your life. We saw U2 there, and it was the experience of a lifetime.

Howth - This little fishing village is a short train ride from Dublin, and felt like eons away. Spend the morning hiking the cliffs along the coast, then pop into town for the freshest fish lunch - the best fish and chips and mushy peas I’ve ever had were here.

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